Glossary for a Curly

Welcome to our Bouclopédia section, your essential guide to understanding all the technical terms and trends in the world of textured hair. Whether your hair is curly, wavy, frizzy or afro, this section is designed to help you navigate the world of hair care.

Discover clear, precise definitions of every term, from methods like no-poo to must-have products like leave-ins.

Strongly influenced by American culture, you'll notice that many of the terms used are taken from the English lexicon.

Whether you're a novice or an expert, this glossary will help you with your hair routine by giving you a better understanding and practical advice tailored to your hair type.

Here is an alphabetical list (not exhaustive) of around a hundred terms commonly used in the world of hair care for curly, wavy and Afro hair, with their definitions and explanations.

Bouclopédia : Curly's lexicon

AFRO : A hairstyle where frizzy or curly hair is worn naturally, often in a round, voluminous shape.

AFRO PUFFS : This is a hairstyle that involves tying your hair into one, two or more bunches. Visually, the sections look like mini afros.

TRACTION ALOPECIA : There are several causes of hair loss. We will only mention here cases of alopecia caused by excessive handling such as braiding, blow-drying, pulling on the hair when tying it up or the use of chemical products such as straighteners.

ANANAS (PINEAPPLE) : In the world of Afro, curly, wavy and frizzy hair, the Pineapple is a hairstyle that consists of gathering your hair at the highest point of your skull, usually with an elastic band, scrunchie or cord. The hairstyle is reminiscent of the shape of a pineapple, which is why it's called the pineapple. It's an attractive hairstyle, but it's also very practical and is used at night to protect the hair from friction.

RINSE-OUT CONDITIONER : Classic conditioner that is rinsed out after a short period to moisturise and soften hair.

À SEC : A method of styling without using water, often to prevent curls from shrinking and to add length.

BABY HAIR : This is the small hair on the forehead, temples and back of the neck. These little hairs are generally finer and shorter than the rest of your hair and look like little baby hairs, hence the name.

BAGGY METHODE : The technique of covering hair or ends with plastic film to retain moisture. The word ‘bag’ means ‘sack’. The bag covering the hair will intensify the natural heat released by the skull, optimising the application and penetration of the products applied during the treatment.

OIL BATH : A deep nourishing hair treatment that consists of applying one or more plant oils to the hair and leaving them on for a while, often before shampooing. The aim is to deeply nourish, moisturise and strengthen the hair.

BANTU KNOTS : Protective hairstyle consisting of wrapping sections of hair in small knots on the scalp.

BANDAGE : Hairstyling technique that allows you to reduce the shrinkage of your hair. To do this, on wet hair, gather all your hair or sections of it together and tie it from the roots to the ends using elastic (or thread). Only when your hair is completely dry can you remove the elastic or thread and admire the beautiful length of your hair. The bandage technique will help you counteract the shrinkage effect of your hair.

SHEA BUTTER : Shea butter is a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, often used in hair care products to deeply nourish and moisturise hair. It is particularly beneficial for dry, textured hair...

BIG CHOP : A ‘big chop’ consists of cutting off all the relaxed or damaged part of the hair to start again with natural hair.

BRAID : There are several possible types of braid: plaited braids, braids with additions or braids on natural hair.

BONNET : Ideal for protecting your hair at night to preserve your curls and prevent breakage from friction, the satin night cap is a must-have for every Curly Woman!

BRAID OUT : A styling technique in which generally wet hair is braided, then unbraided when dry to create beautifully defined curls.

BREAKAGE (CASSE) : Hair breakage, often due to dryness or excessive handling.

DENMAN BRUSH : This brush is particularly popular for defining curls in afro hair. It has rows of nylon bristles that help separate and define curls while gently detangling. Often used on wet hair to help distribute styling products and create defined curls.

BOAR BRISTLE BRUSH : Natural boar bristles are soft and help distribute natural oils from the scalp to the lengths. They are also effective at smoothing hair and eliminating frizz. Ideal for straightening hair and achieving flat or sleek styles.

PADDLE BRUSH : Large and flat, this brush is designed to detangle large sections of hair in one go. It's ideal for frizzy or thick hair, as it allows quick detangling without putting too much strain on the hair. Use to detangle wet or dry hair and to prepare hair before blow-drying.

TANGLE TEEZER : This brush has flexible teeth of different lengths that detangle hair without pulling or breaking. Ideal for fragile, thick hair. Use on wet hair for gentle detangling or to apply products.

MIXED BRISTLE BRUSH : A combination of synthetic and boar bristles, this brush smoothes hair while lightly detangling it. The nylon bristles detangle, while the natural bristles distribute the oils. Use to gently style hair while retaining moisture.

ROUND BRUSH : It is used to smooth hair during blow-drying, adding volume to the roots. Choosing a round brush with boar bristles is better suited to Afro hair to avoid damaging it. Mainly used when blow-drying to straighten or curl hair.

HOT AIR BRUSH : A round brush with a heating system that dries and styles at the same time. It can be used to straighten Afro hair while adding volume. Used to straighten or style hair while drying.

EDGE CONTROL BRUSH : A small brush with firm bristles used to smooth and style baby hairs. It is often fitted with a small spatula for applying gel or wax. Used to sculpt small hairs around the forehead for sleek, clean styles.

BRAID BRUSH OR COMB : Often with finer teeth, this tool helps to prepare hair before braiding and to keep braids smooth. Used to keep hair aligned when creating braids or twists.

BUILD-UP : This is the accumulation of products or residues on the hair, which can weigh it down or clog the pores of the scalp. To prevent this, you need to clarify your hair.

CARRIER OIL : Base oil used to dilute essential oils and moisturise hair.

CG METHOD (CURLY GIRL METHOD) : The CG Méthode is a care routine for curly hair that avoids sulphates, silicones and excessive heat.

CHERRY LOLA TREATMENT : It's a protein treatment to strengthen hair and improve curl definition.

CURLY HAIR : Curly hair forms defined spiral curls. It is generally characterised by elastic curls, with varying degrees of tightness depending on the hair type (often type 3 in the hair classification system).

CREPUS HAIR : Frizzy hair has a very tight, compact, spiral or z-shaped structure. It is generally dry and more fragile, as sebum has difficulty circulating along the hair fibres. They generally belong to type 4 in the classification system.

CURLED HAIR : Curly hair is somewhere between curly and frizzy. It forms very tight curls that can appear dense and voluminous. It often corresponds to type 3C or type 4A in the classification.

WAVY HAIR : Wavy hair forms more or less pronounced S-shaped waves, without being completely curly. They generally belong to type 2 in the classification system.

TEXTURED HAIR : Textured hair includes all hair types except straight hair. It includes curly, frizzy and wavy hair.

CLARIFICATION / CLARIFIERS : Clarifying products open the scales of the hair and remove the residues that saturate it in order to cleanse it thoroughly. These residues include pollution, excess sebum and products and treatments regularly applied to the hair. Clarifying cleanses the scalp and lengths to detoxify toxins and residues.

CLARIFYING SHAMPOO / CONDITIONER : Clarifying shampoo and conditioner. Clarifying shampoos and conditioners are designed to eliminate and deeply detoxify residues in your hair. To clarify your hair yourself, cider vinegar, for example, is a popular natural solution for balancing the pH of the scalp and adding shine. It's advisable to do this once a month to clarify your hair.

CO-WASH : Wash hair only with conditioner, without using shampoo to avoid dryness.

PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLE : Hairstyles such as braids, twists or buns that protect your hair from external aggressions (UV, heat, pollution, cold...) This style allows you to limit limitations and therefore limit breakage and preserve your length.

CREAM : A hair cream is a treatment product designed to nourish, moisturise and protect the hair. It can be used to define curls, control frizz or seal in moisture. It's best to apply a moisturising hair cream to keep your curls defined all day long.

CROWN : Upper part of the head where the hair can sometimes be more fragile or less defined.

HAIRED LEATHER : The scalp is the skin covering the head where the hair grows. It is important to take care of it, as a healthy scalp is essential for good hair growth. Massaging the scalp stimulates blood circulation and helps hair to grow.

CURL PATTERN :  The pattern or shape of the curls, ranging from 2A (wavy) to 4C (frizzy).

CURL ENHANCER : Product designed to define and accentuate natural curls.

CURLY FRO : A hairstyle in which the curls are worn in a round, voluminous shape.

CUTICULE : The outer layer of the hair, which protects the inner layers and can be opened or closed depending on the care given.

DEEP CONDITIONING : Intensive treatment to deeply moisturise and nourish hair.

DENSITY : Hair density refers to the number of hairs per square centimetre on the scalp. It can be low, medium or high. Density often influences the way hair is styled and cared for.

DIFFUSEUR : A hair dryer accessory revered by all Curlys, it allows you to dry your hair while respecting the shape of your curls and reducing frizz.

DUSTING : Méthode de coupe légère pour éliminer les pointes abîmées sans raccourcir significativement les cheveux.

CHIPS : Hair scales, also known as cuticles, are the hair's protective outer layer. They look like fish scales, one on top of the other. When the scales are closed, the hair is shiny and protected. If they are open or damaged, the hair becomes dull and fragile.

ELASTICITY : The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking.

ÉMOLLIENT : An emollient is a substance that softens and smoothes the skin or hair. It helps to moisturise by forming a protective layer, trapping moisture inside hair fibres. Shea butter, for example, is an excellent emollient that deeply nourishes hair.

EDGES : Fine, short hair around the edges of the scalp, often styled with gel.

THICKNESS : Hair thickness refers to the diameter of each strand of hair, not its density. A distinction is made between fine, medium and thick hair, depending on its diameter.

EVOO (EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL) : Extra-virgin olive oil used to nourish and moisturise hair.

EXFOLIATE / SCRUB HAIR : A hair scrub is an exfoliating treatment for the scalp. It removes impurities, dead cells and product residues that can clog hair follicles, promoting a healthy scalp.

FINGER ROLLS / FINGER COILS : Fingers rolls’ or “finger coils” are a styling technique that involves wrapping strands of hair around the finger to define curls. This method is often used to add structure to curls in textured hair.

To redefine your curls, the fingers roll technique works really well with a little styling gel!

FOLLICLES : Hair follicles are small cavities in the skin where hair is born and grows. Each hair originates in a follicle, and the health of these follicles influences hair growth and quality. Follicles blocked by product residues can lead to slower hair growth.

FORKS : Split ends refer to the separation or division of the hair fibre at the end of the hair. This split occurs when the protective cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) is damaged, exposing the inner cortex of the hair and leading to fragmentation. Split ends are also known as ‘split ends’ or ‘bifurcated hair’. Split ends appear when hair is subjected to excessive wear or external aggression (mechanical, chemical, thermal), causing the cuticle to become brittle and the ends to break off. To prevent the appearance of split ends, it is essential to protect, moisturise and maintain the hair by avoiding excessive heat, aggressive chemical products and adopting good hair care practices.

FRIZZ : The scattered hair effect that usually occurs due to humidity or lack of moisture.

FLAT TWISTS : A variation on twists where the hair is braided flat against the scalp.

GLYCERIN : Humectant commonly used to attract moisture from the air to the hair.

GREENHOUSE EFFECT (GHE) : A method of covering the hair to create a humid environment and promote hydration.

GROWTH RETENTION : Ability to maintain hair length while minimising breakage.

HEAT DAMAGE : Damage caused by excessive use of heating tools, resulting in a loss of the hair's natural texture.

HÉNNÉ : Natural powder used to colour hair and strengthen its structure.

HIGH PUFF : A hairstyle in which the hair is gathered into a voluminous ball at the top of the head.

COCONUT OIL : Coconut oil is a natural vegetable oil extracted from the flesh of the coconut. For Afro hair, it is used for its moisturising and nourishing properties, penetrating deep into the hair fibre. It helps to prevent breakage, strengthen hair and reduce frizz. Applied as an oil bath or in small quantities on the ends, it maintains hydration and protects against dryness. However, it should be used in moderation, as excessive use can sometimes weigh hair down.

HUMECTANT : Humectants are substances that attract and retain moisture in the hair or skin. They are commonly used in hair and cosmetic products to maintain moisture. Here are some examples of common humectants and the products in which they are found:

Examples of humectants :

1. Glycérin : Retains moisture in hair and skin.

-Products : Moisturising shampoos, conditioners, hair creams, moisturising serums.

2. Aloe Vera : Moisturises by drawing moisture into hair fibres.

-Products: Hair gels, creams, conditioners, hair masks.

3. Honey : A natural humectant that attracts and retains moisture.

-Products: Hair masks, moisturisers, styling creams.

4. Hyaluronic acid : Widely used for its ability to retain water.

-Products : Hair serums, moisturisers for hair and skin.

5. Propylène glycol : A synthetic humectant commonly used to attract moisture.

-Products : Shampoos, conditioners, styling creams.

In short, these humectants can be found in a wide range of moisturising products such as shampoos, conditioners, masks, creams, gels and serums for hair and skin.

HYDRATATION : Moisturising hair means supplying and retaining water to keep it supple, soft and elastic, which is particularly important for dry or textured hair. Products that moisturise include hydrating shampoos and conditioners, hair masks, hair milks and hydrating sprays. These products often contain humectants such as glycerine, aloe vera or honey, which attract and retain moisture in the hair fibre. Moisturising regularly helps prevent breakage and frizz.

INVERSION METHOD : Inversion Method’ technique consisting of massaging the scalp and inverting the head to stimulate blood circulation and encourage hair growth.

JOJOBA (OIL) : A light oil that resembles the scalp's natural sebum, used to moisturise without weighing it down.

JUMBO TWISTS : Large braids or twists often used for protective hairstyles.

KERATINE : A protein naturally present in hair, essential for its strength and elasticity.

KINKY : Term used to describe very frizzy hair with a tight texture.

KNOT OUT : A hairstyle obtained after undoing Bantu Knots, giving defined curls.

LCO/LOC METHODE : A moisturising technique in which a Liquid, a Cream and then an Oil (or Oil before Cream) are applied to seal in the moisture.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER : Leave-in conditioner used to moisturise and soften hair after washing.

LOW MANIPULATION : A styling method that reduces hair handling to a minimum to prevent breakage.

HAIR MASK : The hair mask is a deep treatment that provides in-depth care for your hair fibre. Nourishing and moisturising, it will provide you with proteins so that your curls are radiant and bouncy. Unlike creams, masks should be rinsed out after a rest period.

MAX HYDRATION METHODE (MHM) : An intensive routine designed to maximise the hydration of very frizzy hair.

MOISTURIZING : The process of adding moisture to hair to make it more supple and prevent breakage.

MONOÏ (OIL) : Coconut oil infused with Tiare flowers, used to moisturise and nourish hair.

MULTANI MITTI : Indian clay used for deep cleansing of the scalp and hair.

NO-POO : A method of washing hair without shampooing, often using co-washes or gentle cleansers.

NUBIAN TWISTS : Protective hairstyle using extensions to create tight twists.

NUTRITION : Hair nutrition involves providing essential lipids and nutrients to strengthen and protect the hair fibre, especially for dry or damaged hair. Nourishing products include hair oils (such as coconut or argan oil), nourishing masks and butters (shea, mango). These products repair hair deep down, seal in moisture and add shine and elasticity. Good nutrition helps prevent breakage and revitalise fragile hair.

OIL RINSING : A technique where oil is applied to wet hair before or after conditioning to seal in moisture.

OVERNIGHT CONDITIONING : Apply a mask or conditioner overnight for deep hydration.

PARABÈNES : Preservatives found in cosmetic products.

PINEAPPLE (ANANAS) : A night-time styling technique in which the hair is gathered at the top of the head to preserve the curls.

WIDE-TOOTH COMB : This comb is ideal for detangling frizzy or curly hair without breaking curls or frizz. The wide teeth get through thick hair while minimising breakage. It is best used on wet hair with a conditioner or detangler to make detangling easier.

AFRO PICK : This comb, often made of plastic or metal, with long, widely-spaced teeth, is perfect for adding volume to frizzy hair or for adjusting the shape of the afro. It is used to lift and add volume to roots, or to create an afro style.

RAT TAIL COMB : With a long, fine tip, this comb is perfect for separating hair when braiding, twisting or sectioning. It's not designed for detangling, but rather for separating and drawing precise lines. Very useful for making neat sections and separations in afro hair.

PLOPPING : Technique of wrapping hair in a T-shirt or microfibre towel to define curls and reduce frizz.

POROSITY : The ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture, varying from low to high porosity.

PRÉ-POO : Treatment applied before shampooing to protect hair from dehydration.

PROTÉIN : Proteins are the main components of hair, the most important being keratin. Keratin is a fibrous protein that gives hair its structure and strength. Other proteins, such as amino acids, also contribute to healthy hair. Hair is made up of 90% keratin, which gives it its strength.

PROTÉIN TREATMENT : Protein treatments are hair care products designed to strengthen the hair fibre by filling gaps in the cuticle. They are recommended for hair that has been damaged or weakened by heat, chemical treatments or colouring.

QUINOA (PROTEIN) : Quinoa protein is a plant-derived ingredient rich in amino acids, often used in hair products to strengthen and moisturise hair. It helps protect the hair fibre, improves elasticity and leaves hair softer and shinier. Quinoa protein-based masks are perfect for restoring hair after a period of dryness.

REFRESH : For Curlys, refreshing your curls means rehydrating your hair with a mist and/or a light cream without having to wash your head. Ideal between two shampoos, this little tune-up is an express way to redefine your curls.

REGIMEN : A hair care routine tailored to the specific needs of your hair.

SHRINKAGE : Textured hair appears shorter than it really is when it contracts after drying.

VINEGAR RINSE : Rinsing with vinegar (often apple cider) balances the pH of the scalp and removes product residues.

RICE RINSE : A technique for rinsing hair with fermented rice water to improve strength and shine. This technique is used in particular by the women of the Yao people, world-famous for their magnificent, healthy hair.

HAIR ROUTINE : A hair routine is a set of habits and regular treatments adapted to the specific needs of your hair to keep it healthy. It generally consists of several steps, such as :

1. Cleaning: Use shampoos to remove accumulated impurities and products.

2. Moisturising: Apply conditioners, masks or sprays to moisturise and soften hair.

3. Nutrition: Use oils or butters to nourish and protect the hair.

4. Styling and protection: styling products and techniques to protect the hair (braids, caps, etc.).

The routine is often personalised according to hair type (dry, curly, frizzy, etc.) and specific needs.

WITHOUT RINSE : Leave-in products are hair care products that are applied after washing the hair, without the need to rinse. They provide continuous hydration, make detangling easier and protect the hair throughout the day. Apply a leave-in conditioner after each wash to keep your curls hydrated.

SCAB HAIR : Damaged hair that grows back after stopping relaxers, often drier and more brittle.

SCALP MASSAGING : Scalp massage to stimulate blood circulation and promote hair growth.

SEALANT : A product, often an oil or butter, used to seal in moisture in the hair after the application of a moisturiser.

SEAL IN MOISTURE : Sealing in moisture is simply a matter of using oil or butter on wet hair after applying your cream. The fatty substance applied will form a protective film around your hair, protecting the hair fibre from dehydration.

SCHRUNCHER : Press curls towards the roots to maximise definition. Ideal for wavy and curly hair.

SÉBUM : Sebum is a natural oil produced by the sebaceous glands in the scalp. It protects and lubricates the hair, giving it shine and suppleness. However, too much sebum can lead to greasy hair, while too little can lead to dry hair.

Gently brushing your hair helps to distribute sebum throughout its length, so you don't end up with dry ends.

SECTIONING : The technique of dividing hair into sections to make it easier to detangle, style or apply products.

SHINGLING : A method of applying products strand by strand to maximise curl definition.

SILICONE : Silicones are synthetic ingredients often found in hair products to smooth hair, add shine and make styling easier. However, some non-water-soluble silicones can build up on the hair and weigh it down, requiring deep cleansing to remove them.

SLIP : The ability of a product to make hair easier to detangle.

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) : A foaming agent found in some shampoos, often avoided by those who follow the Curly Girl Method because it can dry out the hair.

STRETCHING : Techniques used to minimise hair shrinkage, such as blowout or banding.

SULFATES : Cleansing agents found in many shampoos, often avoided as they can strip hair of its natural oils.

SUPER HYDRATATION : Intense moisturising process, often using deep treatments for very dry hair.

TENSION METHOD : Technique of drying hair using a hairdryer and light tension to reduce shrinkage.

TEXTURIZER : Chemical product used to loosen the hair's natural texture, often less strong than a relaxer but still aggressive.

PROTECTEUR THERMAL : Product applied to the hair to protect it from damage caused by the heat of styling tools.

HAIR TRANSITION : The period during which a person stops using chemical treatments such as straightening and lets their hair grow naturally.

TRIM : Light trimming of hair ends to eliminate split ends and promote healthy growth.

TWISTS / VANILLE : Hairstyle often used as a protective style.

It can be done on natural hair or with additions. Unlike 3-strand braids, vanilles or twists are made with two strands of hair wrapped around each other.

TWIST OUT : Hairstyle obtained by undoing twists on natural hair to obtain defined curls.

HAIR TYPE : Hair classification based on texture, ranging from 1 (straight) to 4 (frizzy). There are several hair types classified into four main categories:

• Type 1 : Smooth hair

• Type 2 : Wavy hair

• Type 3 : Curly hair

• Type 4 : Frizzy hair

Each hair type can be subdivided into sub-categories based on the texture and structure of the curls.

In the classification of hair types, the letters ‘a’, ‘b’ and ‘c’ are used to distinguish subtypes within each hair category (types 1 to 4), based on the size and shape of the curls.

•a: Corresponds to larger, looser curls or waves.

- b: Refers to medium-sized curls, slightly more defined than sub-type ‘a’.

- c: Indicates tighter, more compact curls or spirals, often the most defined and voluminous in each category.

Example :

• Type 2 (Wavy hair) :

o 2a : Very slight ripples, often not very pronounced.

o 2b : More pronounced ‘S’-shaped ripples.

o 2c : Thick, voluminous waves, almost like curls.

• Type 3 (Curly hair) : 

o 3a : Wide, well-defined curls in a loose spiral.

o 3b : Medium-sized curls, tighter than 3a.

o 3c : Very tight curls, close to curls.

• Type 4 (Frizzy hair) : 

o 4a : Very tight spiral curls.

o 4b : Even more compact curls, often in the shape of a ‘Z’.

o 4c : Extremely frizzy hair with very little natural definition.

This classification helps you choose the products and hair routines best suited to each type of texture.

UNREFINED SHEA BUTTER : Raw, unrefined Shea butter, prized for its purity and nourishing properties.

VAPORISERS : A MUST-HAVE from Curly, the spray bottle is your best ally for moistening your hair, reactivating products or refreshing curls.

VELCRO ENDS : Hair ends that cling to other strands, often a sign of split or damaged ends.

WASH AND GO : A styling technique in which the hair is washed, moisturised and then left to dry in the open air.

WASH-DAY : The day Busy Curly's look forward to or dread, wash-day is the day you detangle, wash, moisturise, nourish, style and style your hair to maximise moisture. It's after wash-day that you'll dazzle everyone with the shine of your hair.

WATER-BASED PRODUCTS : Products whose main ingredient is water, often used to moisturise hair.

WET LINE GEL : Water-based styling gel used to define curls while providing strong hold.

YAKI : A type of hair extension texture that imitates the texture of natural relaxed hair.

ZIZ-ZAG PARTING : A zigzag hair parting technique for a stylish, original look, often used in protective hairstyles such as braids.